Video Gallery

Jaguar XK 140

A truly beautiful car in a fully restored condition! however that was 15 years ago and it's sat in a barn ever since.
this is the best recommissions that I've been asked to do.

1972 Triumph Spitfire
After new head gasket and radiator

Suzuki Drz 400 new digital dash

Mini 998 Plug inspection

Yes spark plugs are cheap but they don't need changing every service. They do need cleaning and gaping. I always inspect mine every 6 months or so. Classic cars get little use nowadays they can become sooty also carbon can build up. A simple clean with a wire brush or wheel if you have one can make all the difference. I only change plugs if they have covered 10,000 miles or more, or if the electrode is worn unevenly. Here the plugs were in good condition and the gaps were spot on so just a clean. On A series engines plugs 2 & 3 are always richer due to the flow of fuel from the inlet manifold fuel simply takes the most direct route. I always replace spark plugs as a set. Never change just one chances are if one is wearing then so will the others soon. When reinstalling make sure they are only hand tight. Or follow the chart below Directly from NGK's website.

Spark Plug  type                                  Thread Diameter     Cast Iron Cylinder Head (lb-ft.)       Aluminum Cylinder Head (lb-ft.)


Flat seat type (with gasket)                   18 ø mm                                   25.3~32.5                                                     25.3~32.5

Flat seat type (with gasket)                   14 ø mm                                   18.0~25.3                                                     18.0~21.6

Flat seat type (with gasket)                   12 ø mm                                   10.8~18.0                                                     10.8~14.5

Flat seat type (with gasket)                   10 ø mm                                     7.2~10.8                                                        7.2~8.7

Flat seat type (with gasket)                     8 ø mm                                        —                                                              5.8~7.2

Conical seat type (without gasket)       18 ø mm                                  14.5~21.6                                                      14.5~21.6

Conical seat type (without gasket)       14 ø mm                                  10.8~18.0                                                       7.2~14.5

1985 SL280

Here I'm repairing a fuel pump relay, The car simply wouldn't run and the fuel pump was silent. These cars don't have a fuse for the pump, only the relay. Which on this year is located behind the driver side dash (Rhd car) just above the fuse access hatch. You will need to remove some trim to access it. Its about the size of a packet of cigarettes.


Part of the pcb had burnt out I soldered a bridge between the breakage. These relays are very expensive and that's if you can locate one!

1952 MG Td

I received a call to say that the car wouldn't start also the stater solenoid was smoking.  This was due to poor installation at some point in its life. The stater motor feed wire was earthing on the outer case of the solenoid.

There was nothing wrong with the solenoid itself however due to the car being moved to another location I replaced it. These cars have very little in the way of dampening for the engine they tend to wobble about a bit this is probably what happened here. However if the feed cable was fitted correctly then this should never have happened.

Rover P6 3500 V8

This Rover had been messed with! someone had installed an extra ballast to the coil (ford branded) which in turn made the rev counter go haywire.

I removed it then the Rev counter responded as it should. While I had the car I replaced the brake master cylinder, it also had a oil and filter change (20w 50). These Rover V8's and the stag V8 engines need very regular oil changes. The top of the heads can get blocked up very easy.

Bedford 1939 WW2 3T Truck

God knows when this was last run! I started off by checking that it was complete. I had been told by the owner that bits were missing. However after inspection it appeared to be intact. I then checked the fluids and plugs before attempting to start it, the fuel in the two separate tanks was like mud and really smelly to. I decided to clean the fuel pump and carb, then I pre-filled the carb. I cut the main fuel line so I could add a hose  connected to an old water bottle filled with fresh petrol. After adding a battery I tested the ignition and lights which all worked. Then I pulled on the Knob that's attached to the starter solenoid Nothing! I inspected the solenoid which was stuck in the off position. After freeing this the truck came to life. I spent the rest of the day freeing the rear brake drums and emptying the fuel tanks. I replaced the fuel hose along with a inline filter to catch any debris. Later I drove the truck around the owners farm where it had spent to many years waiting for me.